Full Length Craft Room Pegboard DIY
You may remember seeing my craft room inspiration post; in that post I showed my inspiration for a craft room pegboard. I have seen several DIY pegboard craft organizers online and wasn’t sure if I wanted one. They can be cute and useful but they can really add clutter to a workspace if you’re not careful about how you organize them.
After some deliberation, I decided to add a pegboard to hang up large items. Instead of having something that stood out this pegboard is designed to somewhat blend in with the walls.
Hubs spent a day helping me to put this together. Starting at Lowes we bought a full sheet of pegboard, crown moulding with a flat bottom, plain molding for the remaining 3 sides and 2 square millwork accent mouldings.
Start by measuring your wall space and then cut the pegboard to fit. Our pegboard ended up being 6 1/2 feet tall (78 in) by 30 in wide.
We purchased a full sheet of pegboard and cut it to size.
For the frame, we made sure to pick up moulding with a flat bottom edge, so that I did not have to do an angled mitre cut. It also makes the pegboard look a little bit farmhouse, although I am more interested in it being as pretty as possible.
The side and bottom is done with plain flat 2″ moulding.
For the two bottom corners of the frame you will need two- 2 – 2″ square millwork accent mouldings like the one in the picture. Like the top of the wall mounted pegboard frame, you will not need to do mitered corners.
Cut and Paint the Pegboard
The hardest part of making this pegboard is cutting the flimsy pegboard material. As the pegboard sheet is quite floppy, you will need two people to hold the pegboard while you cut it to size using a table saw.
Once the pegboard is cut, paint it to coordinate with your wall colour. Make sure to paint it before adding the trim. This one is painted in Benjamin Moore Revere Pewter (our home’s base colour and I always have some on hand). We just painted the side that would be showing and left the back unpainted.
Add the Moulding
Measure and cut the top crown moulding so there is a 1/2 inch overhang at each end. Ours was cut to 31″. Glue and then nail the moulding to the pegboard. Hubs used an air nailer and nailed the moulding from the back of the pegboard.
Place the two millwork squares on the bottom corners (flush no overhang) again attach with glue then nail in place.
Once the squares are attached measure between the squares and the top moulding. Cut your plain moulding to length and glue and nail in place.
I was hoping that the original white on the mdf moulding would be adequate, unfortunately, it didn’t look right, so it received a second coat of white paint.
Attach to the Wall
The pegboard may need to hold a significant amount of weight so you have to ensure the pegboard is mounted securely. The first step is to find the wall studs and mark their location.
We were able to line up the existing holes of the pegboard with the studs. If possible try and place your pegboard so that the pegboard holes line up with the studs. Predrill a hole into the studs. If you weren’t able to line up the pegboard hole and the stud, predrill both the pegboard and the stud.
Hand spin two nuts onto the bolt end.
Place the wood screw end into the predrilled wall stud. Using the top nut and a wrench turn the nut, this results in the screw end drilling into the wood. Tighten to the desired length from the wall. Make sure there is a gap between the wall and the pegboard so you have room for the pegboard accessory pins. Fasten the end of the bolt with an acorn nut.
Repeat this for a total of four spots, two on the top and two on the bottom.
These shelves were mismatched Hemnes bookshelves from Ikea, that I painted to match, and then made some quick curtains to hide some of the stuff. The bins are all dollar store.