DIY Wooden Tool Box Decor with a Cottage Style Look

I wanted a simple wooden tool box decor to display some vintage plates and platters for spring. They have such pretty floral designs, and I think they are perfect for seasonal decor. You can also find them for cheap while thrifting.

I had asked for one a long time ago, but with spring finally here, I got brave and decided to build one myself. I think this is a great beginner project because I had to keep it simple to match my own skill set.

Hubs was hovering while I built it, and he was so proud of my design that he surprised me with roses that afternoon.

How to Build a Wooden Tool Box Step by Step

This is a simple build, but I have broken it down into clear steps with lots of photos so you can follow along easily. I used a radial arm saw, which was the brave part I mentioned, but you can easily do this with a jigsaw.

This project is built more with visuals than exact measurements, so you can follow along without needing to measure much at all.

Step 1: Gather Your Supplies

Gather your 1×6 board, 1×2 pieces, spindle, glue, sandpaper, and nails, along with a ruler, saw, and hammer. When choosing your spindle, pick one as long as you want your box to be, since the spindle will determine the overall size of your wooden tool box.

Step 2: Trim the Spindle Ends

Lay the spindle on top of your board and mark where to cut it. Trim both ends so they match the thickness of the wood, which helps the spindle sit properly and prevents it from sticking out past the ends of your box.

Step 3: Mark the Board to Match the Spindle

Lay the spindle on the 1×6 and mark the length of the main turned section. Using the spindle as a guide, mark the board so that the spindle ends only hang over slightly at each end. When you cut the board, it will give you the bottom of your box.

Step 4: Cut the Boards to Length

Cut your first board to length, then place it on top of your second 1×6 and mark it so both boards match exactly. This keeps your pieces even without needing to measure again.

Step 5: Mark the Center Divider

Set one board aside to use as the bottom, then measure the second board. Mark it in half and cut it to create the center divider for your box. This divider helps keep plates and platters upright and easy to see.

Step 6: Check the Fit of Your Main Pieces

Place the bottom board flat, stand the divider upright, and set the spindle across the top. Make sure all three pieces line up to the same length, and if needed, trim or adjust any piece so everything fits evenly.

Step 7: Cut the 1×2 Pieces

Hold a 1×2 up to the bottom board and mark it so it matches the same length. Cut it, then use that piece as a guide to mark and cut the remaining 1×2 pieces so they are all the same.

Step 8: Lay Out All Your Cut Pieces

Lay out the bottom board, center divider, spindle, and 1×2 pieces. This gives you a quick check to make sure everything is cut and ready, and if needed, trim or adjust any pieces so they all line up evenly.

Step 9: Mark the End Panels

I began by lining up the 1×2 pieces with even spacing so I could clearly see the height of the end panels before committing to any cuts.

Cut your two end pieces to 11 inches long. Cut one piece first and use it as a template for the second so they match.

Find and mark the center. Measure 7 inches up from the bottom on both sides of the 1×6 and mark it. At the top, measure 1 1/2 inches out from center to create a 3-inch top.

Using a ruler, draw a line from the 7-inch marks up to the top marks to form the angled sides. We will mark the spindle holes later.

Step 10: Cut the Angled Sides

Cut along the angled lines you just drew to shape your end panels. You can use a jigsaw to follow the line, or adjust your radial arm saw to match the angle. When I lined mine up, it came out to about 25 degrees.

It is good practice to use the first cut piece as a guide for the second so they match. Once you have one side cut, repeat the same process on the other side.

Step 11: Check Both End Pieces Match

Place the cut end piece on top of the second piece and line them up to make sure they match. Check both sides before moving on so your box stays even.

Step 12: Measure the Spindle Ends

Trace the ends of your spindle onto paper and measure them so you know the size of your holes. One end may be slightly different from the other, so be sure to check both.

Step 13: Clamp the End Pieces Together

Place both end pieces together and clamp them securely to your table. This keeps them steady and ensures your holes will line up when you drill.

Step 14: Mark the Hole Placement for the Spindle

With the boards clamped together, find and mark the center. Measure about 1 1/2 inches down from the top and draw your circle where the spindle will sit. This is just a guide; once drilling, you will place the center of the bit on the center line.

Step 15: Drill the Spindle Holes

With the boards still clamped together, use the correct size drill bit for your spindle ends, usually 7/8 inch or 1 inch, and drill through the first piece and slightly into the second to mark the spot. Remove the top piece, then finish drilling the hole in the bottom piece so both holes line up.

Step 16: Lightly Sand All Pieces

Before assembling, lightly sand all your pieces using 120-grit sandpaper. Do not sand too much, especially on the ends, as you do not want to change the lengths. This step is just to remove any slivers.

Once assembled, give the entire box another light sanding to prepare it for primer and paint.

Step 17: Assemble the Frame

Apply glue to both ends of the spindle and insert it into the end pieces. Place the bottom board in position, then secure everything by hammering nails into the ends.

Step 18: Find the Center for the Divider

Find the center of the box by eyeballing it first, then measure to check. It should be just under 3 inches from each side.

Step 19: Attach the Center Divider

Place the divider at your center mark and start a nail through the end piece to hold it in place. I found it easier to look down from the top to line it up rather than trying to measure while holding it. Once in place, nail it from both ends and through the bottom to secure it.

Step 20: Add the Side Slats

Attach the first 1×2 at the bottom using glue and nails. For the next piece, use a 1-by-2-inch wood spacer to keep the spacing even, then glue and nail it in place.

Sometimes the nails may pop through the side. If that happens, just pull them out and try again. At the end, use wood filler to fill any holes.

Step 21: Prime the Wooden Tool Box

Because the wood is bare, start with a coat of primer such as Zinsser 123. This helps seal the wood and gives you a better surface for painting.

Step 22: Paint the Wooden Tool Box

Once the primer is dry, apply two coats of paint. I used Fusion Mineral Paint in Picket Fence white, lightly sanding between coats with 150-grit sandpaper for a smooth finish.

I chose white because it fits a cottage style look and really helps the vintage plates stand out more than a cream finish would.

This simple wooden tool box decor was a fun and practical build. It can be used for displaying vintage plates, seasonal decor, or even everyday storage around the home. I love how the cottage style finish keeps it soft, simple, and versatile.

I enjoyed this project so much that I will probably make one or two more. It was especially fun because I could skip a lot of the measuring and just build it in a more relaxed way.